Business owners·June 23, 2026·6 min read

How to send a logo for embroidery: file types, vector vs. raster, and what we fix

The fastest way to a clean embroidery quote is sending the right logo file. Here is exactly what to dig up, what each format means, and what we fix on our end.

The single thing that slows down an embroidery quote more than anything else is a bad logo file. Not the garment choice, not the piece count, not the color. The file. If you send us the original artwork your designer built, we can usually quote you the same day. If you send a logo someone screenshotted off Instagram, we can still help you — but now there's a rebuild in the way, and rebuilds cost time.

So before you start a quote, spend ten minutes finding the right file. Here's how to tell what you have, and what to ask for if you don't have it.

Vector vs. raster, in plain terms

Every logo file is one of two kinds.

A raster file is made of pixels — a fixed grid of colored dots. PNG, JPEG, and GIF are all raster. They look fine at the size they were saved, but blow one up and the edges go soft and blocky. That's the file running out of dots. A logo someone exported for a website or a social post is almost always raster, and usually small.

A vector file is made of math — points and curves the computer redraws at any size. SVG, EPS, and AI are vector, and so is a PDF that was exported from vector artwork. Scale a vector logo to a billboard or shrink it to a hat front and the edges stay crisp, because there are no pixels to run out of.

For embroidery, vector wins every time. The reason is in how a logo becomes thread: a digitizer rebuilds your art as a stitch path, and clean source shapes make that a faithful trace instead of a guess. We wrote the longer version of that story in what digitized actually means — worth a read if you've ever wondered what that one-time fee is buying.

The ideal: ask your designer for the original

If a designer or agency made your logo, they built it in vector software, and the original file is sitting on their drive. That's the one you want. Ask for:

  • The AI (Adobe Illustrator) or EPS file, or
  • A vector PDF exported from that artwork.

The trap is the export. When you ask for "the logo," people tend to send the version they have handy — the PNG that goes in email signatures, the JPEG off the website. Those are downstream copies. Be specific: ask for the original Illustrator or EPS file, not the social-media export. One short message to your designer can save a rebuild fee on your end.

If you have a vector file but aren't sure, send it anyway. We can open it in a second and tell you what you've got.

If all you have is a raster

This is the common case, and it's fine. We can work from a PNG or a JPEG — we just rebuild your logo as a vector first, then digitize from that. There's a craft cost to it, because someone is redrawing your mark by hand to match.

Two things make that easier and cheaper:

  • Resolution. A large, sharp PNG is far easier to trace than a 200-pixel thumbnail. Send the biggest, cleanest copy you can find. If you've got it on a printed business card or a sign, a high-res photo of that can help too.
  • Simplicity. A flat logo with clean edges rebuilds fast. A photographic logo, a heavy gradient, or tiny stacked text takes longer and may need to be simplified for thread.

We'll tell you up front what the rebuild involves before any work starts — no surprises on the invoice.

What we fix for you

Sending art is not a test you have to pass. Part of what you're paying for is our hands on the file. On a typical job we'll:

  • Clean it up — remove stray backgrounds, fix rough edges, separate elements that need to stitch in different colors.
  • Match your colors — translate your brand colors to the closest embroidery thread, working from Pantone codes if you have them, or matching by eye off a printed reference if you don't.
  • Simplify for small scale — a logo that reads fine on a sign can turn to mush at two inches on a cap. We'll flag what won't survive that size and suggest a cleaner mark for hat fronts and sleeves. (More on why small scale is hard in stitch count, thread weight, and the fabric pull.)

Then, on any new logo, we run a stitched-out proof — your actual mark in real thread on the real blank — and send you a photo before we run the batch. The first digitizing is free, and we keep the file, so every reorder after that matches the first and skips the setup.

A quick checklist before you hit send

Send us:

  1. The file — vector (AI, EPS, SVG, vector PDF) if you can get it; the largest, cleanest PNG or JPEG if you can't.
  2. Your brand colors — Pantone or thread codes if you have them; otherwise just point us at something printed that's correct.
  3. Where it's going — cap front, left chest, full back, sleeve. Placement changes the file.
  4. How small — the finished size in inches, if you know it. This is what tells us whether the fine details will hold.

That's it. With those four things we can usually come back the same day with pricing and a recommended blank. Not sure which garment yet? Browse the catalog and pick a direction — we'll sort the file out around it.

When you're ready, start a quote, email thevalleyembroidery@gmail.com, or call (805) 944-5417. Send the cleanest logo you've got, and we'll handle the rest.

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Talk to a real person — we're right here in Lompoc.

Send a logo and a count, and we'll come back with pricing, recommended blanks, and a real stitched proof before you pay a cent.